|
MORE TOPICS |
Create a Native Cornfield Bed
|
|
|
Published
in a September issue of Organic Gardening Magazine
|
|
The end of the summer is a time when
we reap the rewards of all our hard work in the garden through the
last few months. Late summer borders should be spilling over
with colourful plants now and the vegetable harvest hard to keep
up with. However if you have a moment to spare over the next
few weeks this a good time to plan ahead to next year, especially
if your garden is in need of a real injection of colour. Try
sowing an area of cornfield annuals now to brighten an empty spot
next spring and summer. These wildlife-friendly mixtures of
annual wildflowers vary depending on your supplier, but generally
contain a minimum of five species of easy to grow cornfield
‘weeds’ – corncockle, corn marigold, common poppy, cornflower and
corn chamomile. More sophisticated mixtures may include
pheasant’s eye, wild forget-me-not, corn buttercup and
night-flowering catchfly, but if you are planning on a wildflower
area beware of mixes containing seeds such as English marigold
(not a native in spite of its name) or larkspur. Although
these non-natives can provide nectar and pollen and are of great
value in the wildlife garden, the true native mix has so much more
charm as the component species are all of a similar height which
gives a wonderful ‘sea of colour’ effect. |
|
|
|
|
This bright mixture of annuals can be
breathtaking. Its combination of colours and flower shapes
is really unlike anything else we see in our gardens, with hues of
bright yellow and red, cornflower blue, dark pink and white.
And all for just a small amount of effort now.These species once grew around the
edges of our cornfields and other agricultural land as their names
suggest. Sadly most have been eradicated as their seeds
contaminated grain. The corncockle in particular, with its large
black seeds, was known to be poisonous to livestock. The others
suffered from ‘tidier’ fields, cleaner seed and changing
agricultural practices. Cornflowers are now rarely seen but
poppies and corn marigolds do sometimes occur in fields where
seeds have been brought to the surface by deep ploughing. One
particular field of poppies in the Oxfordshire countryside brought
so many people to see it a few years ago that the enterprising
farmer charged visitors a small fee to wander through the sea of
red blooms - an indication of how much we miss these colourful
flowers in the countryside.
|
 |
|
cornfield annuals |
|
 |
 |
|
Many wildflowers germinate in the
autumn, including some annuals that use this strategy to get ahead
in the spring. Corncockle, one of the usual components of a
cornfield mixture, is one of those useful annuals that seems to be
capable of germinating at almost any time of year except during
the depths of winter, so an autumn sowing of a cornfield mix will
result in the rapid appearance of this pretty large leaved
seedling. This means that what would otherwise have been
bare soil will be covered through the winter, helping to maintain
soil moisture once spring arrives. It also results in better
germination of the other species and affords them some protection
from foraging seed-eating birds through the winter months.
Another advantage of sowing now is that there will always be good
germination of the poppies in the spring as this species needs a
period of cold, frosty weather to break dormancy. I have
sown many a cornfield area just too late in the spring for the
poppies to show as all frosts had passed! Lastly, sowing now
means that your colourful mixture flowers earlier – from late May
onwards – but that doesn’t mean it peters out sooner. The
corn chamomile and corn marigold in particular will go on
flowering well into late summer regardless of when they
germinated, resulting in a patch of wildlife friendly flowers for
many months.
|
|
corncockle and
corn chamomile |
|
|
Bare soil is essential for this mix
to do well, so your first task is to find an open sunny spot that
needs an injection of colour and life! Most of us can find a spot
like this, however small. I often use this mixture to fill newly
created borders or spaces when my perennials are not ready to go
out, or if I haven’t quite decided what I want to grow in that
spot. It is also useful to sow between new shrubs or perennials,
covering the bare spaces as the bigger plants fill out over time.
Alternatively you could dedicate an area to these wildflowers as
they will seed themselves year upon year. The soil must be
relatively weed free but can be of any type. These flowers are
adapted to grow in just about any soil from sand to clay, but they
do prefer full sun. A few germinating annual weeds such as
groundsel or chickweed in your seed bed are not going to
significantly spoil the final effect, but perennial weeds such as
nettles, couch grass or docks will be a problem over time. It is
best to dig the ground over thoroughly, removing dandelion roots
and couch as you go. You may like to leave the spot for a week or
two to allow annual weed seeds to germinate if these interlopers
are going to bother you. These can then be removed quickly by
hoeing before you sow. At this stage you need to calculate
roughly how large your area is and order your seed mix from a
reputable supplier. The sowing rate recommended is usually 2
grams per square meter but this does not need to be accurate.
Over-sowing though is not advised as the plants will be small and
spindly if they have too little space. Best to err on the side of
too little seed rather than too much and any leftover seed will
keep well for many years in a cool place. |
|
Once your ‘weeds’ are taken care of
(and some would say you are sowing weeds anyway) rake the soil
well to a fine tilth. You do not need a perfect seedbed but it is
always useful to give seeds a good start if you can. Shake up your
mixture thoroughly or all the tiny poppy seeds will be at the
bottom of the packet and you will end up with an uneven
distribution. If you have accurate kitchen scales, weigh out two
grams to give you a benchmark amount as sowing begins, or mix the
seed with a little fine sand so you can see more easily where you
have distributed it. I must confess I never take this part too
seriously but just distribute the seed as evenly and thinly as I
can by broadcasting it in front of me as I walk backwards over the
area (looking out for the rake which I have inevitably left on the
ground!). Once the area is covered (and don’t be tempted to ‘get
rid of’ excess seed – keep it for another occasion) you now need
to push the seeds gently into the soil. This is best done by
walking methodically across the area treading the seeds down onto
the soil surface. They do not need covering with soil and indeed
will not germinate well if they are heavily raked in. The poppies
in particular need light to trigger germination. If you fear the
effects of your local greenfinch population, hang some old
redundant CDs around the plot to sparkle in the sun, but this
mixture has never failed to germinate well for me in spite of the
inevitable losses to seed eating birds. |
|
The corncockle seedlings plus a few
corn chamomile should appear within a couple of weeks and the
other species generally germinate in March. Flowering will begin
in May and can continue right into September and even October if
the weather is good. In all, this mixture is excellent value.
The cornflower and corn marigold attract butterfly species such as
small copper and common blue, the poppy and corn chamomile have
plenty of pollen and are magnets for bumblebees and hoverflies,
and larger butterfly species will take the occasional sip of
nectar from the corncockle. And as the flowers go over,
goldfinches tussle for the seeds of the cornflower which they
love. In October or November simply pull out the dead stalks,
scatter the seed and start again. |
 |
|
|
|
If you are feeling adventurous you
could add the odd pinch of something extra to the mix (I sometimes
include Shirley poppy varieties such as Angel Wings or Mother of
Pearl which are varieties of the native common poppy in shades of
pink and mauve) for a softer foil to the bright primary colours,
but left to its own devises this natural combination cannot fail
to please you and your garden wildlife. |
|
 |
|
|
| ©
Text and photographs Jenny Steel 2012
|
|