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Encouraging
Solitary BeesPublished
in Organic Gardening Magazine - April 2005
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In these days of increasing
awareness of the benefits of organic gardening and farming, biological
control is big business. Introducing beneficial insects into our
gardens or greenhouses is now a fairly normal approach to pest control or
pollination, and in certain situations can be a very effective way of
dealing with unwanted insects such as whitefly or aiding the setting of
tomatoes. But however useful this scientific approach may be, many
gardeners would still prefer to encourage useful creatures using natural
methods, building up a well balanced garden over time, rather than
introduce predators in unnatural quantities or bumblebees into areas where
natural pollinators are lacking. If we can encourage these insects
to colonise our gardens naturally there is more likelihood that the
environment will be right for them and their populations will increase. As
far as pollinators are concerned there are over 260 different species of
bee in this country, but at least a quarter of these are in serious
decline, mainly due to lack of wildflowers in meadowland and hedgerows on
which they forage for pollen and nectar. Bumblebees, solitary bees and
honey bees all need a good supply of these plant foods, for themselves and
their larvae, and the all important pollination occurs as they move from
flower to flower. It therefore stands to reason that a good supply
of nectar and pollen producing plants is a first step towards establishing
plenty of pollinators of all types.
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honey
bee |
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Most of us know
something about honeybees and bumblebees but pollinating solitary bees are a
particularly useful group of insects and it is not difficult to cater for
their needs in any garden. Many species occur in small numbers in
gardens and on allotments, and populations of these useful insects can be
encouraged to increase by providing the food and conditions they require. One of the solitary bees, the red mason
bee, Osmia rufa, has been much in the limelight recently on account of its
ability to work garden plants, especially fruit trees, and pollinate more
effectively than either honeybees or bumblebees. It has been estimated
that a single red mason can do the work of over 100 honey bees, working more
quickly and flying at lower temperatures, making a small colony of these
insects a great asset to fruit growers. However, the red mason bee is
only one of the species of solitary bee that naturally occur in gardens.
Another species, the blue mason bee, Osmia caerulescens, is an effective
pollinator of flowers, herbs and vegetables and along with the red mason is
also found in gardens in small numbers. There are many other species
and each has its own place in the garden or allotment habitat.
Encouraging a wide range of these bees means that pollination throughout the
growing season can be effectively covered.
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Many of the solitary bees will
nest in artificial homes. Red and blue mason and leaf cutter bees in
particular are easy to cater for, and nest homes can be made for them quite
easily by using a few things readily found in the home or garden, ranging
from off-cuts of softwood and hollow plant stems to empty baked bean tins.
To make a simple bee nest home, completely remove the lid of a tin can and
wash the tin thoroughly. After drying, paint the inside end with a
waterproof adhesive and pack the tin tightly with large diameter paper (not
plastic) straws, each one about a centimetre shorter than the tin. The
completed home should be painted on the outside to prevent rusting, and then
attached with string or tape to a south facing, bee friendly spot such as
under the eaves of a wooden garden shed. It is usually recommended
that these homes are sited at about chest height, but I have effectively
used them beneath a sunny downstairs windowsill. A south facing
woodpile in the garden is also the sort of place that female bees may be
house hunting.
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red mason
bee
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This
type of home can be packed with sections of hollow bamboo cane or plant
stems as an alternative to straws. I prefer plant stems from species
such as hogweed or sweet cicely, which are cut to size in the late winter
and left to dry in a sunny shed or greenhouse. The natural variation
in the diameter of the stems will encourage a range of bees, rather than
one species. If you prefer a completely natural looking home, a
triangular box made with wood off-cuts and a plywood back works very
effectively. |
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An alternative home can be
made by drilling a series of holes in a 5cm square piece of softwood, about
15cm in length. Use the longest drill bits you can find, and make
holes between 7 and 10mm in diameter. This can be placed in a pile of
logs or attached to a fence or shed, again south facing. If you would
rather buy a superior bee home, there are now plenty available from garden
centres and mail order catalogues specifically for red mason and other
solitary bees. As the red mason is a slightly larger insect she
requires tubes of a larger diameter. The female red mason bee,
recognisable from the fuzz of gingery-red hairs on her body, will be seeking
a nest site in March and April. After mating, each solitary female
will lay single eggs inside the tubular holes, sealing each one into its
chamber with a quantity of pollen for the larvae to feed on. The ends
of the chambers are sealed with mud, which she carries to the nest in her
jaws. The blue mason bee seals her nest chambers with a glue made of
chewed leaves. Later in the year the leaf cutters (species of
Megachile) will use vacant holes in the same nest home, filling the ends
with circular sections of leaves carefully cut from roses, willow herb and
other common species.
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leafcutter
bee
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The
life cycle of these useful insects is fascinating and complex. The
young bees remain inside their chambers until the following spring when they
hatch and begin the job of pollinating your garden fruit, flowers and
vegetables with great efficiency. Actively encouraging them to your
garden or allotment and building up a population by providing them with
breeding homes and food will ensure that your fruit and vegetables set in
the natural way that nature intended.
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Grow
a selection of bee plants to encourage as many species of bee as possible to
your garden. Here are some of the best:
Herbs
especially rosemary, lavender, borage, hyssop, mint, thyme and marjoram
Annuals
and biennials including wallflowers, poached egg plant, mignonette, and
phacelia
Perennials
especially cranesbills, dead nettles, fleabane and globe thistle
Wildflowers
especially knapweed, vipers bugloss, clover, scabious, vetches and trefoils
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© Text and
photographs Jenny Steel 2009
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