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Make a Wildlife Pond |
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The overall shape of the pond is not important, but it's profile is. There should be at least one gently sloping slide to enable birds, amphibians and mammals to reach the water in safety. Many hedgehogs drown in garden ponds as a result of slipping in whilst drinking. Once in the water they find it impossible to scramble out if all the sides are steep. Having a gently sloping edge will also give you the opportunity to grow plants that prefer to live in just a few inches of water. A shallow shelf (around 6 to 9 inches below the surface of the water) will also allow you to grow marginal plants. Try to have at least one area of the pond between two and three feet deep for water lilies and other plants requiring deeper water. This will also provide a safe place for some aquatic animals to spend the winter. |
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Many types of pond liner
are available from garden centres and by mail order. Those from the latter
are usually the cheapest. Butyl liners last for many years, but are
expensive compared to polythene liners, which are effective and reasonably
long lasting. Concrete is rarely used for lining ponds now, and preformed
fibre glass liners are, in general, not suitable for wildlife ponds, due to
their inappropriate shapes. |
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| Once the pond has been dug, and the liner inserted (best to use the manufacturers instructions to do this), then you can begin to think about plants for your pond. A wildlife pond is generally back-filled with a certain amount of soil, or upturned turfs to give your plants a rooting medium. It is not necessary to choose just British wild flowers for your pond, but these will encourage wildlife and look more natural in an informal way. Try to include plants for shallow water, margins, deep water and some with floating leaves, as well as plenty of oxygenators. The best time to plant up your pond is late spring. |
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Many
wild creatures will find their own way to your pond once it is full of
water. Water beetles, dragonflies, damselflies, pond skaters and water
boatmen, will all find your pond as they fly past looking for new habitats
to colonise. Often frogs, toads and newts will also find your pond without
help, If you have a friend with a pond, a bucket of water, a small amount of
mud from the bottom of their pond, or a handful of oxygenating weed, will
help to introduce some of the smaller animals including pond snails. It is
rarely necessary to buy snails, they generally turn up as eggs on pond weed. A
wildlife pond requires little maintenance, other than carefully removing
excess plants every couple of years. The best time to do this is in the late
autumn. The plants that have been removed should be left on the pond edge
overnight to allow any small creatures to crawl out and find their way back
into the water. During dry weather the pond should be topped up, little and
often. If you can organise the rain water run-off from your house or
shed roof to find its way into the pond, so much the better. This will help
to reduce the problem of blanket weed, as will submerging a bundle of barley
straw in the deepest part of the pond. Equally important, try to
ensure that you have at least half of the pond surface covered with plant
leaves which will cut down the amount of light and heat entering the water. |
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Pond Plants
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| To find out more about
making a wildlife pond, order
Jenny Steel's Gardening with Nature book on creating Wildlife Ponds.
Click here
32 pages with information on pond creation, planting, wildlife and maintenance. 17 colour photos. |
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© Text and photographs Jenny Steel 2008